Allantoin from comfrey plant. Excellent skin care ingredient to moisturize and soothe

How to Use Allantoin in Skin Care

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You might have noticed that allantoin is a popular ingredient in a range of skin and personal care products, ranging from toothpastes, sun care products, all the way through hair care and face creams. This blog discusses what allantoin is, why it’s such a versatile ingredient, and how you can incorporate it into your own products. At the end we have a bonus recipe for an Allantoin Winter Skin Serum that your customers will love!

Benefits of Allantoin

Allantoin in skin care has long been used for its soothing, nourishing and smoothing properties.  Allantoin can be found in problematic skin products and sun care products because of its ability to hydrate and soothe skin so well. It has rejuvenating properties, thus its use in oral hygiene products.

However, in general it’s used as a moisturizing agent, helping skin appear healthy. It tends to leave skin feeling even softer than before due to its ability to help slough off dead skin cells while still working to help skin retain moisture.


What is Allantoin Derived From?

Allantoin is traditionally derived from the comfrey plants and others in the borage family, however it is largely lab-synthesized now. At Essential we use this nature-identical synthesized form, and it appears as an odorless white powder.


How to Use Allantoin in Skin Care

Allantoin is water in soluble up to 0.5%, and is very slightly soluble in alcohols. Before adding to water, heat the water to at least 65°C (150°F).

It is insoluble in oils and nonpolar solvents (these are solvents that dissolve oils and greases—think of diethyl ether or benzene). Allantoin is stable in the pH range 3-8 and to 80°C (176°F) prolonged heating.

Typical usage rates are 0.1 – 0.5%, but may be increased up to 2%.


Allantoin Serum – Perfect for Winter Skin

Winter weather can leave skin feeling rather unhappy as we move from cold harsh weather outside to dry heat inside. Calm and soothe your winter skin with this simple and highly effective winter skin serum.

This serum is designed to soothe weather ravaged skin and leave a healthy looking, bright glow. Allantoin is the star ingredient in this serum but every ingredient was carefully chosen to provide the best winter skin support possible!


Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Yield: 1 lb
Approximate cost/pound: $10.76
Suggested Packaging: 1 oz airless pump bottle
Suggested Retail Price: $20 – $50


Equipment You’ll Need:

·        Beaker or other container to heat ingredients

·        Hand mixer or other high shear mixer

·        Hot plate or stove top

·        Scale


Ingredients:                       % of finished        Amount (lbs)


Orange Blossom Distillate        41.37%                  .0414

Deionized Water                         41.37%                  .0414

DMAE                                           5.2%                      .0052

OptiMSM                                     5.2%                      .0052

Allantoin                                      0.5%                      .0005

Vegetable Glycerin                    3.13%                      .0031

(USDA Certified Organic)

Hyaluronic Acid Powder          0.93%                   .0009

Rosehip Seed Oil                        1.00%                   .0010

(USDA Certified Organic)

CoQ10 Powder                            0.3%                     .0003

Optiphen Plus                             1%                          .0010

For more on why we use Deionized Water (and why you should too) check out this blog.



1.     In a beaker or other stove top-safe container, mix together Orange Blossom Distillate, Deionized Water, DMAE, OptiMSM, and Allantoin. Heat to 150F – 160F. In order for the Allantoin to dissolve, the water must reach at least 150F before adding

2.     In a separate container, mix together vegetable glycerin and hyaluronic acid powder. Make sure it is mixed well and not lumps are present.

3.     Using your stick blender or other high shear mixer, begin mixing heated water phase. Slowly add vegetable glycerin/hyaluronic acid paste to water while high shear mixing. You will notice the water starting to form a gel, you may need to increase the speed of your mixer as the gel forms.

4.     In a separate container, mix together rosehip seed oil and CoQ10 Powder. Be sure to mix well until powder is fully mixed into the oil.

5.     High shear rosehip seed oil and CoQ10 powder mixture into serum until fully blended.

6.     High shear Optiphen Plus into serum.

7.     Pour into packaging

8.     Use on cleansed, toned skin anytime

Please note that this recipe has not been challenge tested for preservation efficacy. If you use this recipe for market sales–it is up to you to ensure the safety of the product.

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1 year ago

Have the usage rates changed for DMAE & MSM? I used to have 0.4-0.8% and 1-5% respectively as usage rate. It now shows 3-5% and 2-12%.

1 year ago
Reply to  Julie

Hi Julie!

I’ve tried my best to look at our archives and find where those usage rates are coming from, and I can’t find anything showing those legacy usage rates. I asked our VP about it and she said the old usage rates you are referring to seem wrong to her.

DMAE Bitartrate usage of 3-5% is what we recommend which is what our website states, however there is no true study showing the best % to use and I can tell you that when people go higher than 5% they start complaining about discomfort. The 0.4-0.8% usage is most likely for true DMAE, but that is a horrible ingredient to work with, highly alkaline and no matter what, would need to be neutralize. The type of DMAE we sell is neutralized with tartaric acid.

For MSM, again I do not know where that usage range of 1-5% came from but yes 2-12% is what I would go with.

Please let me know if you have any more questions. I will do my best to help.